The Moroccan scam that wasn’t
Two men on the train invited me to their sister’s wedding, but they didn’t look at all like brothers. Tall, fair-skinned Achmed and short, swarthy,...
Cuba’s endangered leaping crocodile
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The strange, ancient tunnels to nowhere
“How do you like spiders?” asked James Gossip, an archaeologist, British prehistory expert and my guide to this subterranean world – one, apparently, that’s...
A beer older than the Bible
It was just past lunchtime in Jerusalem’s industrial Talpiot neighbourhood. Traffic sat at an uncomfortable standstill, and the thick smog of diesel truck fuel fogged...
The village with no locks or doors
Imagine a village where homes have no front doors, shops are always left unlocked and locals never feel unsafe. This is the story of Shani...
Hawaii’s magnificent lava lake
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The man who saved Colombian coffee
At first glance, the farm didn’t look any different than the one next door. A gravel road, flanked by short palm trees and overgrown...
An 11,000-year-old treasure trove
I was standing at the entrance of Gua Harimau (Tiger Cave), an ancient cavern hidden in the northwestern jungles of Malaysia’s Perak state. The...
Where mortals drink like gods
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A medieval castle – that floats?
Fraternal forts
Many travellers have heard of Mont St-Michel, the fortified medieval monastery perched on an island in Normandy, France, that you can walk to...
How the Irish lost their words
I always knew my Uncle Peter was setting up for a story when he’d lean back in his bar stool. Nothing dramatic, nothing too...
The man who is paid to taste water
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The circus that started as a mistake
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‘I will miss the chaos, the grit’
It was 3:30 am when I finally worked up the courage to leave Jonathan’s, a 24-hour diner in Tokyo’s Chuo ward. I walked out...
The longest train journey in India
The Dibrugarh-Kanyakumari Vivek Express train number 15906 crosses India from the northeastern state of Assam to the southernmost town of Kanyakumari. The 85-hour journey...
The hidden world of the Knights Templar
It was rush hour on a weekday and I was weaving my way down the Strand, one of central London’s most famous thoroughfares. The...