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Winning tip: Wander through the vineyards
From anywhere along the Ringstrasse, take the D tram to its end station, picturesque Nussdorf. From therefollow Wildgrubgasse as it curves its way through Vienna’s wine area. Dotted along the way are small Heuriger (wine taverns) where you can sit among the grapevines and soak up the city view. The best time of year to visit is autumn, when these guesthouses serve up the year’s new wines, sturm (fermented, pressed grape juice) and cold platters of cheeses, pickles and breads. If your legs are a little wobbly after the wine, there’s a train back into the city..
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Stolpersteine
Most tourists look up to see history but in Vienna, and many other European cities, the history of the Holocaust is under your feet. Small brass cobblestones called Stolpersteine (stumbling blocks) are placed around the city outside the homes from which Jewish, gay, socialist, Gypsy and other victims were sent to their murder – ermordet in the evocative language on the small plaques. The effect is moving, but also positive, for there are now more than 48,000 of these remembrances in 18 countries.
steinedererinnerung.net
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Visit a micronation
In 1984, after disputes with the Austrian government, artist Edwin Lipburger created the independent republic of Kugelmugel. Located in the Vienna Prater, the ball-shaped building is surrounded by barbed-wire fences and its address is 1 Anti-fascism Square. Its government (one President Lipburger) is currently in exile, as are its many hundreds of citizens.
SeditionWien
Third Man walking tour
Photograph: Allstar Picture Library
If there’s one film that is synonymous with Vienna, it’s The Third Man. The 1949 classic is a fascinating insight into the city that was divided between the Allies. The Third Man walking tour retraces Harry Lime’s footsteps through the city’s cobbled streets, visiting many of the original locations and telling the tales of the black market, spying and hardships of post-second world war Vienna. If you are a fan of the film, or just want a historic tour with a twist, it’s a must.
Leaves Stadtpark every Monday and Friday at 4pm, €18, viennawalks.com
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Viennese cycle tours
Get a healthy taste of Vienna by enjoying a guided afternoon bicycle tour on the user-friendly network of traffic-free cycle paths. Lasting three to four hours, they are suitable for all ages and the leaders speak English. They start out on the Ringstrasse, skirt the Danube and take in all the main sights, including the Hofburg Palace – with regular breaks to rest and take photos. Afterwards, replace burned-up calories with afternoon tea at one of the Oberlaa chain of cafes around the city.
Tours from €29, wien.info
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Praterturm
The Prater is best known for the Riesenrad, and while no trip is complete without a spin on the famous old wheel, venture further into the park to enjoy the Praterturm. The 117-metre swing ride is the tallest of its kind in the world, and offers a great view of the city and its surroundings.
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Technisches Museum Wien
Not far from the Schönbrunn Palace is a little-visited gem: Vienna’s museum of technology, which is fun for children and fascinating for adults (captions in German and English). There are interactive exhibits (how much electrical power can you generate?), the oldest operating motor vehicle, a full-size train kids can “drive” and some darker pieces of Austrian history like the Third Reich radio that received only approved radio stations.
technischesmuseum.at
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Urbanek
In the midst of the north end of the Naschmarkt is Urbanek, a temple of porcine indulgence. It is a family run charcuterie and cheese joint with plenty of local wines stashed in the cellar. Put yourself in the hands of the owner, Gerhard, by asking for a glass of something crisp and a platter of his selection. Cut by hand, the fruits of his labour will arrive as the wine settles. A world of culinary delight will unfold before you. Gorgeous roast beef, cold-sliced pork belly and hard cheese pressed with the mountain flowers the cows enjoyed. Never disappointing, always revelatory and an excellent way to meet some proper locals. A true, if – due to its size – often overlooked, Viennese institution.
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Explore Vienna’s Electronic Music Scene
Berlin may be Europe’s current hipster capital but electronic music has been making waves in Vienna and the scene gives the city an atmosphere of collected cool, making nights out accessible and enjoyable. For dancing till dawn visit Pratersauna in the second district, a prefab venue that also has a pool and outdoor cinema screenings in the summer. To hear experimental acts head to the bunker-like Fluc and Fluc Wanne, or for a chilled drink go to Donau on Karl-Schweighofer-Gasse and enjoy relaxed beats accompanied by artistic projections – but you’ll have to find the hidden entrance first.
pratersauna.tv, fluc.at, donautechno.com
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Aunt Dorothy’s
Aunt Dorothy’s, as the Dorotheum auction house is sometimes fondly known, is just a short stroll from the Hofburg Palace and around the corner from the stables of the Spanish Riding School’s Lipizzaner horses. Items up for auction can range from fur coats to Damien Hirst paintings, and for those who prefer to shop without the high-octane stress of an auction, there’s a host of items to “buy now”. From furniture, carpets, and paintings to jewellery, toys, stamps and even bundles of old hand-penned letters, the temptations are endless and ever-changing.
dorotheum.com
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